Bandhavgarh in 60 Seconds

After a 17-month gestation period, I have finally managed to edit the footage I shot in Bandhavgarh in May 2013 entirely with a GoPro Hero 3 into a minute-long montage (many thanks to my good friend Phillip Ross for lending me the wonderful camera.) I present you ‘Bandhavgarh in 60 Seconds’: Watch in full HD…

The River Tigers

The ‘River Tigers’: The Mirchani female and her male cubs at Damnar Their gleaming eyes haunt the lonesome night, cutting like fire lanterns through the dark and balking at owls screeching to a silvery moon. Only stars bear witness to their opulent jaunt. By morning they snake back to their mythical abodes through bushes that…

The Intrepid Athena

The morning was young and the sun gentle when we hit the cheekily nicknamed Aloo Bonda Road. The track is known by this curious moniker for it takes you to Hardia, where you can throw in the towel mid-safari, and having relieved at once your bursting bladder, devour an assortment of toothsome revivers, chief amongst…

Rajbehra Reminiscence

I’m just back from Bandhavgarh without a single photographable tiger encounter at Rajbehra, my favourite meadow in Bandhavgarh along with Chakradhara. In fact this entire summer, I know of only four times the Rajbehra Female (Dhiti) or one of her highly photogenic cubs have put in an appearance there during our work hours. This is…

From History to Eternity

I sometimes wonder if history can repeat itself. But I realise it doesn’t have to, when it lingers forever. 19 May was the fourth death anniversary of the Jhurjhura tigress (left) I fondly called ‘Auntie’. She wasn’t the prettiest tigress I’ve known; that is clearly a position concretely held by her smashing sister, the Chorbehra…

The Death Walk

He was so big that he had his own gravitational field. And the moment when he pressed purposefully forward with a quarry in his sights and the smell of a kill doing the death dance in his nostrils was a rear-loosening one. There are times when tigers look cuddly. This is the majority of times….

Kinarwah Chronicles

In the pursuit of wildlife, fantasy is a constant companion.  With ambition as its close ally, the mind goes about weaving dreams at every corner, and causes the heart to wistfully sigh when they don’t come true.   One such long-nursed dream was to see a tiger at Kinarwah, the manmade waterhole at the fringe…

An Ode to a Girl

To her who can – evoke a smile for no reason; hand a ‘happy high’ sans spirits; yet with her single glimpse raise… sky-high a dead man’s spirits; To her who can – with her beauty set even a stoic heart aflutter, and make the most articulate tongue stutter; bring spring to a barren soul,…

Wise as a Tiger

My eleventh visit to Bandhavgarh began on an ominous note.   At the tail end of the first safari, we arrived at Gopalpur Meadow to find an extremely genial English gentleman, whom I was to later identify as John Aitchison, a wildlife cameraman who’d won an Emmy for my then favourite documentary, Frozen Planet.  He…

Late-Morning Action

My friends have a most profound distaste for the road that runs precipitously down from Vulture Nest to Ghodademon Junction. I’ve always loved it for the sense of adventure and anticipation it evokes but my friends find it too bumpy for their hips, so they’d rather spare themselves the teeth-clattering ride for all the obscure…